THE VIEW FROM THE OTHER SIDE

The Best Travel Is on
Foot, to New Jersey. 




Introduction

Of all my walks around New York City, my favorites are those that take me to New Jersey. Anytime I mention my ambulatory travels to the Garden State, I’m met with puzzled looks.

“You can walk to New Jersey?”

Yes, you can walk to New Jersey on foot. However, it’s not easy and requires time, patience, and planning. Separated by the Arthur Kill and Hudson River—both less than a mile wide—New Yorkers have only three options, none of which are solely for pedestrians. Two of these options, the Goethals and Bayonne Bridges, are accessible only to Staten Island residents—a borough of roughly 500,000 people—leaving nearly eight million other New Yorkers with no choice but to cross the George Washington Bridge (GWB).

The George Washington Bridge, completed in 1931, was designed with pedestrian walkways. However, as car culture grew, foot traffic dwindled, leaving this connection underutilized. Today, only 200,000 pedestrians cross the GWB annually (including both New York and New Jersey residents) because the bridge is inconveniently located at the northern tip of Manhattan. Plus, people generally don’t like walking that far, even New Yorkers. They’d rather take public transit or drive. More New Yorkers might walk to New Jersey if there were better pedestrian access—especially considering the deteriorating infrastructure and the city's growing population. Increased commuter traffic only adds to the difficulty, but that’s not changing anytime soon.
I go out of my way to walk to New Jersey not for productivity, health benefits, or unexpected scenic views, but to feel more connected with my surroundings and to develop a sense of place that many New Yorkers seem to lack these days. Walking, especially over such distances, slows down time and forces you to notice the details—the way the skyline shifts, how neighborhoods transition, and the subtle changes in the air as you cross the river. It’s a reminder that the city is more than just a collection of destinations; it’s a living, breathing entity.

I had never considered spending time in New Jersey until walking from Brooklyn to Philadelphia over the course of eight days in 2021. I found myself alone, exhausted, on the George Washington Bridge with the city shrinking behind me and New Jersey slowly emerging ahead—a quiet, almost meditative experience. This sense of solitude, of being in-between two states, offered a new way of seeing the city—a perspective you can’t get from a car or a subway train.

I believe more people should walk for the sake of walking—to feel more at home and more connected to the world around them. Next time you have a free afternoon, consider putting on your shoes and heading west. You might find that the journey to New Jersey offers a new way of seeing New York.

    — Alex Wolfe, September 2024

I started in Manhattan at Columbus Circle and ended at the Port Imperial Ferry Terminal in Weehawken, New Jersey.


Walk Route Distance: 16.35 miles
Duration: 6.5+ hours

The route I chose was no coincidence. For this walk, I decided to follow the proposed path of the Hudson River Bridge, an ambitious project envisioned by Gustave Lindenthal, the designer of the Queensboro and Hell Gate Bridges. Proposed in 1923, Lindenthal's design aimed to connect New Yorkers to New Jersey from West 57th Street in Midtown Manhattan to Weehawken, NJ. Although the bridge was never built, its plan for pedestrian access inspired me to chart a route that traces this imagined path across the river. Had this bridge been constructed, walking to New Jersey from Manhattan would have been as effortless as reaching Queens or Brooklyn via the Queensboro, Manhattan, or Williamsburgh Bridges.

The walk spanned 16.35 miles and took me at least six hours. It can be shortened or lengthened depending on your preference, with trains, buses, or ferries back to New York City always within reach.

I began at Columbus Circle, a few blocks from Lindenthal's original vision. From there, I moved north up Broadway until reaching the George Washington Bridge—the only pedestrian option for reaching New Jersey from Manhattan today. Crossing the bridge offers an epic view of the Hudson River Palisades, with their rugged cliffs towering over the water in striking contrast to the urban sprawl.
On the New Jersey side, I continued toward Weehawken, Lindenthal’s proposed endpoint. The route weaves through diverse terrains, starting with the suburban landscapes of Bergen County and moving into Hudson County, home to some of the most densely populated cities in the United States, including Guttenberg, West New York, and Cliffside Park.

The walk concluded at the Port Imperial Ferry Terminal in Weehawken, where Lindenthal's bridge would have ended. Here, I found one of the most breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline, especially at sunset, when the glass and steel of the buildings glow orange against the darkening sky. Once finished, you can catch a ferry back to Midtown Manhattan in about eight minutes.

Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and snacks for the road—comfort is key for a long trek like this. Comfortable shoes are essential. I usually bring a camera to capture the views, but it’s not required—the walk alone is a transformative experience

Lindenthal's design, proposed in 1923, aimed to connect New Yorkers to New Jersey from West 57th Street in Midtown Manhattan to Weehawken, NJ. 
Photographs
Columbus Circle, Manhattan.



New Jersey as seen from 12th Avenue in Manhattan.




Washington Heights, Manhattan.


The George Washington Bridge (GWB).


GWB’s recently rennovated pedestrian access.



Looking north from GWB at the Hudson River Palisades.

The view of Manhattan to the south.


Crossing state lines.



The view of Manhattan from the Fort Lee, New Jeresy scenic overlook. 





James J. Braddock Park, North Bergen, New Jersey.


West New York, New Jersey.
Guttenberg, New Jersey.

The view of Manhattan from a large set of stairs descending the Palisades.

 

The Port Imperial Ferry Terminal.
Empire State Building seen from Weehawken, New Jersey.


About 
Alex Wolfe is an artist, writer, and educator from Iowa living in New York City. His writing, photography, and objects are the result of his movement on foot. His work explores the passage of time, the transience of memory, and ways of archiving the impermanence of experience. His practice is a means of establishing a sense of place. 

Notable walks include: 180-miles from Brooklyn to Philadelphia (9 days), 115-miles across Los Angeles (7 days), 160-miles across the entire length of Long Island (9 days), 400-miles in 10 different East Coast cities (30 days). He is the founder-editor of Pedestrian, a magazine for people who like to walk and move (RIP).Wolfe’s work is collected by the New York Public Library and the Joan Flasch Artists’ Book Collection. He has guest lectured at or led walks for Princeton University, Swiss Institute, Salomon Shoes, Municipal Art Society of New York, Index, and the Parsons School of Design.

email
pedestrianmagazine@gmail.com

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